TRIER
Trier is the oldest city in Germany, and one that many people have never heard of. The Mosel river runs through this city in the western part of the country, seemingly dividing an old Roman city and its hill-hugging vineyards on the other side. As in most of Europe, to truly appreciate and understand the history, you need to pay attention to the details you may otherwise skip: whether it be in the fountains, on facades of buildings, or in city layouts. For example, in the main square, there are two statues of knights, one with his visor closed (symbolizing peace), and the other's open, his hand on his sword.
Trier, founded in 16 B.C., was a Roman town for 400 years. Emperor Constantine spent excessively on urban projects here, but alas, the money eventually dried up and Rome (and Trier) eventually fell to the barbarians. Today it still offers opportunities to explore Roman history and early Christianity. |
PRE-TOUR
We arrived in Trier one day before our tour was to begin. We recommend adding a day or two (or a week!) in Europe prior to your tour to get over jet-lag and get accustomed to the new country's language, food, and cities. After a short flight from London to Frankfurt, we board a bus for a three-hour bus ride westward to Trier. Immediately we find a cab driver who takes us on a fast, fun (well, scary for April) Mr.-Toad's-Wild-Ride-ish, zig-zag ride through the streets of Trier to our hotel: Residenz Am Zuckerberg.
Our tour officially starts tomorrow. The staff mentions a festival in town this weekend along the riverfront, with carnival rides, food and beer, and fireworks. Though we're tired from all our trekking through London, we walk along the river to experience a true local event, people-watching and munching on yummy bratwurst, whose makers are proud to suggest their favorite mustard with it!
The next day we have a two-hour morning cruise up and down the Mosel. It's a great viewpoint from which to see the town slowly transition to countryside. We may be the only Americans on board; the captain's commentary is entirely in German. But all the better.
We arrived in Trier one day before our tour was to begin. We recommend adding a day or two (or a week!) in Europe prior to your tour to get over jet-lag and get accustomed to the new country's language, food, and cities. After a short flight from London to Frankfurt, we board a bus for a three-hour bus ride westward to Trier. Immediately we find a cab driver who takes us on a fast, fun (well, scary for April) Mr.-Toad's-Wild-Ride-ish, zig-zag ride through the streets of Trier to our hotel: Residenz Am Zuckerberg.
Our tour officially starts tomorrow. The staff mentions a festival in town this weekend along the riverfront, with carnival rides, food and beer, and fireworks. Though we're tired from all our trekking through London, we walk along the river to experience a true local event, people-watching and munching on yummy bratwurst, whose makers are proud to suggest their favorite mustard with it!
The next day we have a two-hour morning cruise up and down the Mosel. It's a great viewpoint from which to see the town slowly transition to countryside. We may be the only Americans on board; the captain's commentary is entirely in German. But all the better.
Then at 4 pm we meet our tour buddies and guide, Rolinka Bloeming, for an orientation meeting. Many of our travel partners are repeat Rick Steves travelers.
Rolinka was Justin's favorite guide out of the three tours he's taken, and April loved her as well. She speaks five languages, knows culture (history, art, food, music, etc.) like the back of her hand, and truly cared about each individual, meeting them where they're at and always available for conversation or questions.
You probably know that Rick Steves tours run on the "buddy system," which serves to facilitate the roll call on the bus. Everyone simply checks to make sure their buddy is on the bus, and away we go, quickly and easily. Rolinka went a step further and matched buddies in fun ways we had to figure out -- i.e. same birthday month, but you'd only figure that out the more you got to know each other. (We did.) Rolinka has definitely set the bar high!
TRIER HIGHLIGHTS:
-Walking tour of the city with local guide, Paula, visiting famous sights such as the Porta Nigra, Market Square, Imperial Baths, Palace Gardens, the Cathedral, and more, learning fascinating history along the way.
-Joining the locals at a wine-tasting event in the main square.
-Side trip to Beilstein and Burg Eltz Castle.
Rolinka was Justin's favorite guide out of the three tours he's taken, and April loved her as well. She speaks five languages, knows culture (history, art, food, music, etc.) like the back of her hand, and truly cared about each individual, meeting them where they're at and always available for conversation or questions.
You probably know that Rick Steves tours run on the "buddy system," which serves to facilitate the roll call on the bus. Everyone simply checks to make sure their buddy is on the bus, and away we go, quickly and easily. Rolinka went a step further and matched buddies in fun ways we had to figure out -- i.e. same birthday month, but you'd only figure that out the more you got to know each other. (We did.) Rolinka has definitely set the bar high!
TRIER HIGHLIGHTS:
-Walking tour of the city with local guide, Paula, visiting famous sights such as the Porta Nigra, Market Square, Imperial Baths, Palace Gardens, the Cathedral, and more, learning fascinating history along the way.
-Joining the locals at a wine-tasting event in the main square.
-Side trip to Beilstein and Burg Eltz Castle.
"The most touching moment for me was a Sunday morning walk through the old town, having the square nearly all to myself, when suddenly I’m simultaneously surrounded by the ringing of the bells from three nearby churches. I also learned of a compassionate approach the city has towards homelessness. A woman who greets you as you enter the Cathedral is not a beggar, as you might think, but is allowed by the church to welcome guests and keep the area tidy in exchange for the donations she receives. This allows her to afford her apartment and not live in the street." ~ Justin's Travel Journal entry, 7/10/16
The Romans made this a great city ages ago, erecting monuments and inventing things like heated floors. To understand the power of this city, consider even the following folk legend:
The Romans made this a great city ages ago, erecting monuments and inventing things like heated floors. To understand the power of this city, consider even the following folk legend:
At the entrance to the Cathedral sits a large pillar which held up the roof of this Roman building. The people were trying to build a cathedral, but were having a hard time because they needed four pillars – “70 feet tall and as heavy as twelve elephants” -- to support the roof.
The devil was roaming the earth, as he normally does, when he noticed their predicament and asked what they were building. They lied and said they were building a pub “where we can drink excessive amounts of alcohol, curse our parents, fight, and lust.” The devil of course was excited about this, and gladly brought them the pillars they needed, one by one, on the tip of his finger.
But by the time he brought the fourth pillar, he realized he had been deceived, and that this pub was actually a church. In anger, he threw the pillar, where it crashed near the entrance to the Cathedral, and ran in vain. So nowadays, whenever the devil does his world tour, he skips Trier, having been reminded of the experience. Trier is thus considered the world’s only “devil-free city.”
The devil was roaming the earth, as he normally does, when he noticed their predicament and asked what they were building. They lied and said they were building a pub “where we can drink excessive amounts of alcohol, curse our parents, fight, and lust.” The devil of course was excited about this, and gladly brought them the pillars they needed, one by one, on the tip of his finger.
But by the time he brought the fourth pillar, he realized he had been deceived, and that this pub was actually a church. In anger, he threw the pillar, where it crashed near the entrance to the Cathedral, and ran in vain. So nowadays, whenever the devil does his world tour, he skips Trier, having been reminded of the experience. Trier is thus considered the world’s only “devil-free city.”
BEILSTEIN
Time for a lunch stop in the cute town of Beilstein! Why can't all lunches be as scenic (and yummy!) as this?!
Today we meet our bus driver, Jocze (pronounced yo-sheh), from Belgium. On Rick Steves tours, your bus driver is like another member of your group: you eat and bond together the same as with everyone else. The drivers are always skilled and safe, and the buses are comfortable and even stocked with water, soft drinks, and beer for 1-2 euros. |
"Descending into the Mosel Valley, I'm in awe of the landscape. The river cuts the valley in two. Vineyards stretch as far as the eye can see, up and down the hills of slate. At ground level, they are so close that you can touch them from the road. Cute German houses -- all with boxed flowers -- dot the landscape, and the mighty and impressive Cochem Castle, perched up on its hill, elicits my first real "wow." ~ Justin's Travel Journal entry, 7/10/16
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Lunch is on Rick today: salad, followed by goulash or quiche. If you'd like to indulge further, ice wine is a famous specialty! It's very sweet but packs a punch.
We also have free time to explore the town's cobble-stoned lanes and shops, or hike up to the ruined castle for magnificent views of the Mosel Valley. This is what Justin always dreamed Germany would look like! It is also very similar to France's Alsace region.
We also have free time to explore the town's cobble-stoned lanes and shops, or hike up to the ruined castle for magnificent views of the Mosel Valley. This is what Justin always dreamed Germany would look like! It is also very similar to France's Alsace region.
BURG ELTZ
It's always been Justin's dream to live in a castle, especially with views like this!
Burg Eltz is unique in that it's not perched high on a hill, but down below in a valley. And it's been in the same family since the 12th century! It's divided into several parts, which belong to different families. Our guide, Daniel, tours us through several parts of the castle while explaining its fascinating history! It has 80 rooms, 40 fireplaces, toilets automatically flushed by a rain drain, a chapel, a treasury, and lots of creative decor. (Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside.)
Burg Eltz is unique in that it's not perched high on a hill, but down below in a valley. And it's been in the same family since the 12th century! It's divided into several parts, which belong to different families. Our guide, Daniel, tours us through several parts of the castle while explaining its fascinating history! It has 80 rooms, 40 fireplaces, toilets automatically flushed by a rain drain, a chapel, a treasury, and lots of creative decor. (Unfortunately, photos are not allowed inside.)
This visit is a good way to work off some of that lunch. While upon arrival, we walked down (note: VERY steep) from the parking lot, we took a different route back to the bus: a pleasant mile-long walk through the woods. It's very hot, but the bus ride back was a great way to relax with cold beers and conversation. It's only our second day together, but we're already laughing and joking around like we've known each other for years. Rolinka is great at bringing everyone together!
Back in Trier, the rest of the evening (and dinner) is on our own. Tomorrow we're off to the spa town of Baden Baden!
Back in Trier, the rest of the evening (and dinner) is on our own. Tomorrow we're off to the spa town of Baden Baden!